Our Last (Very) Full Day

July 22
It is our last full day. It is hard for everyone to believe. Time always seems to fly, at the end.
We go in the morning to do a show at a school for handicapped children called the Oan school.

Once again, this show echoes my own youth circus beginnings with The Circus Kingdom. Rev. Dave (who ran The Kingdom), Warren (who was my first circus teacher), this, all this, is for you and from you. Passing it on.

The gym ceilings are high in the school space but the basketball hoops are set very low to accommodate all the children in wheelchairs. Even our smallest member, little Amit, can reach the rim. "You are the Iking of Israeli basketball." I tell her. "No," she replies, "I, I-Queen!." This witty, verbal response from a child whose parents were bemoaning her lack of interest and ability in English. Since our arrival, her interest in English has grown keen and this use of language points to an understanding her parents thought she did not have.

This is our last show together--- at least of this tour. Like all last shows, it is bittersweet. We have accomplished so much and in so little time. I am incredibly proud of all these amazing young people and so thankful for this whole opportunity. What an honor to be part of it.

The school presents us with a certificate that thanks us for sharing our talents and gifts with the children and says something about the feeling of the day lasting forever. It will indeed.

We go to the old city of Jaffa to shop and have lunch. The kids split up into groups that have nothing to do with nationality or religion. There are a couple of incidents with shopkeepers that seem to be against the Arab children but the children‘s solidarity makes these slights of no consequence.

Final gifts and souvenirs are bought. We laugh over lunch and enjoy each others purchases. Renaldo gets the kefia he has been wanting and looks good in. Rianna and Shaina get bellydancing outfits.

We get back on our bus. The name on the bus is "Future Lines". When we get back to the Green Village, we take a group photo in front of the bus. If only this could be the future (and, of course, it can be!). I that is possible that these very children will be instrumental in making such a future.

The young people go to pack and the adults meet to discuss a show we will do for the kids on this last night together. The plan is to set up some chairs to look like a bus and then have the adults act out the different kids and the kids will need to guess who is being portrayed.

It is interesting what is suggested as the defining characteristics of each of the students. Also, interesting is the fact that these traits can be ascribed to at least one person from either group. Will you be able to tell this one just by how he takes his circus bow? Is this person’s telling the others what to do helpful or bossy? Is the child who won’t eat anything Iking or Amit?

The skit is a great success and most are guessed and appreciated by all. including the person being spoofed. The grand finale is Rabbi Marc’s rapping portrayal of Iking.

The show is followed by the kids’ extemporaneous attempts at portraying some of the adults. Then there are speeches. Both Renaldo and Iking express their gratitude and appreciation, as do others. There are gifts. St. Louis Arch key rings for all the Israelis, Galilee wine and mint plants for me and Michael, the brand new Galilee Arches’ t-shirt for all. We know there are also some private gift-giving exchanges amongst the kids. They present us iwwth astanding ladder--- a prop Michael has been searching for. Each of the boys in the fire act gets a staff.

The Israeli kids need to have a meeting. They have been invited to perform on a live TV show and must decide which acts to do. The American kids finish packing. How can this be the end? There is talk already about the Galilee Circus kids coming to America next summer. Next year is the 60th anniversary of the founding of Israel. Perfect.

The kids congregate in each others rooms and on the benches outside. I don’t think anyone gets a full night’s sleep. We all want to get our fill of each other and know this will be our last chance for a while.

From the Sea to the Circus to The Mall--- all in one City

Today, we are going to go swimming in the Mediterranean! We load up the bus and head for the Tel Aviv beach. (I think every city should have a nice beach front area!) It is already quite hot at 10 AM. The American kids each grab a chair under an umbrella until we find out that you have to PAY for each chair, umbrella and chaise (6, 8 and 12 shekels, respectively). We buy a bunch of chairs and umbrellas and set up camp. The kids are instantly in the water. There are some 'medusa' a.k.a. jellyfish. Tamer gets stung on his cheek near his eye and some of the others get some slight body stings but nothing major.

The kids do what kids do at the beach--- bury each other in sand and chicken fights. The partners change whenever I look. We are such a cohesive group. I like what Matt said in one of his interviews about thinking there would be a problem since we didn't all speak the same language but he said he found out that you need a lot less words than you think! We order pizza and it is delivered by someone on a pizza delivery bike. They have found a place with pepperoni and the American kids are thrilled.

We head back to the Green Village, which is also the headquarters for a youth circus known as Circus Florentine. This one was started by an Arab man named Nir who studied and performed in France. The American kids are pleasantly startled as they turned a bend in the path and came upon a tent that looked almost identical to the one that houses Circus Flora. It is basically a smaller version of the same tent. Inside, however, there is no ring curb. Just lots of aerial rigging--- Nir is an aerial silk artists and is Bulgarian girlfriend's specialty is trapeze. They also have one of those inflatable floors for tumbling on.

Some of their students are there and we do introductions all around. We do a group warm-up, led by Nir and then split up into stations. Most of the boys go to the inflatable tumbling track. Elliana is thrilled to be on a lyra with a swivel. Renaldo gets Nir to teach him some great new tricks on fabric. Elle and their trapeze teacher trade tricks.

We reluctantly leave to go to dinner. Before we go, the trapeze teacher pulls me aside and asks if I have trouble in America with the kids and their parents thinking I am too tough. She is form the very stringent Bulgarian circus school and many of the Israeli kids and parents complain she is too hard on her students although, by Bulgarian standards, nothing could be further form the truth. I had Russian circus teachers, so I know how harsh their training can be!

After dinner, we take everyone to the biggest mall in Israel. The kids buy things for themselves, each other and folks back home (in Israel and America).

On the Boardwalk and At the Movies

July 20

Our shows today are going to be on the boardwalk of the Tel Aviv Seaport. It is a bit fuzzy when we are actually meant to perform. It is going to be a hot day and we are told the Boardwalk doesn’t really come alive until the night so we decide to do one day show and then come back to do a night show. There is a special key needed to access the electricity and the one man who has this key can only help us to do the night show at 10 PM. The first show is lightly attended and it is so hot that some of the kids sit under the sound table for shade. We go for burgers and wraps for lunch.

It is decided we will go to the movies for The afternoon. The hope is to see the newly released Harry Potter movie. By the time we get over there and organized, the movie is sold out and they break into groups to see other movies. Most of them go to see Transformers. I find an internet café and try to catch up on the blog. It has been a while since I have had internet access and electricity, at the same time

Most of the Americans are surprised to find that an intermission is taken at the movies in Israel. The kids clown around and take photos with some mannequins they have discovered.

There is an American woman named Lynda White who had seen us at City Museum where she had come to tell me about the Jerusalem Circus only to find I already knew about them. She herself was there when we went to visit and Lynda also attendee our show at the Jerusalem YMCA. She has offered to buy us all dinner on the Boardwalk.

To thank Lynda and the restaurant owner, the kids do some impromptu tumbling on the pier to collect a crowd. The kids eat everything except the calamari which all the kids--- American and Israeli-- find disgusting. They are chasing each other around the boardwalk with it.
We thank Lynda and go to set up for our show.

Things are a little more laid back in Israel than in he States. The one guy with the key does not show up until well after 10.

The Boardwalk is MUCH more crowded. There is not much lighting, so we don’t do some of the acts. But we get permission to do the fire act in the middle of a sand pit that is right behind our staging area. The show is VERY well received. It is late and some fo the kids fall asleep as we are loading out.

From the Desert to the Big City

July 19

Renaldo wakes me before dawn because his camera is broken and he wants to catch a picture of the sunrise. He does. Then he asks if I will take his picture as he climbs up on a sand dune.

The others wake up slowly.

Without predetermination, there is one spot in the encampment that is first used by Rabbi Marc for his morning prayers and then, in turn, by Alex for mediation, Menar for prayers and Amit for yoga.

Our hosts start bringing in breakfast. It is sumptuous (by Middle Eastern standards). A long, low table is covered with plates of hummus, pita, labana, salad, omelets and more.

After eating, we load up the bus and drive to the edge of Mitzpah Ramon. This is the Grand Canyon of Israel! Created by unique combination of geological forces it is like an incredible moonscape--- very awe-inspiring. Marc leads us on a hike along its rim then up a hill to a place called Camel Mountain, which offers an incredible view.

I actually stay at the rim while the rest hike up the winding Camel trail. For one moment, I am entirely alone in vast and utter quiet. I can't remember when I last had such an experience.

We walk to the visitors' center. There are small big-horned somethings along the way. We watch the making-of-the-crater video--- you get your choice of watching it in Hebrew or English. Keaton, at least, goes in to watch it in Hebrew so that he can be with the Israeli kids.

We go into the town for lunch and for the kids to swim in the local pool. This town is drawing many artists and is becoming like America's Sante Fe. Some of the grown-ups go and visit the local artists' studios.

I have been corresponding via email with an African acrobat named Abraham who has been working at resorts in the south of Israel with his troupe, Kenya Mambambo. This is the furthest South that we will be and Abraham has taken a bus to come and visit us. He is an incredibly open and generous man. He and the Arches start tumbling for each other. This evolves into an African acrobatic and pyramids lesson right on the lawn by the pool.

Abraham has to take the two hour bus ride back to be in time for his shows and we have to set up for ours.

Ours will be on a small stage behind the local community center. It is part of a street fair put on by the Community Center and popcorn, candy, lemon drinks and baked goods are being sold. Children are everywhere. It looks like most of the town has come out for our show. The hillside fills with people and we present our show partially onstage and partially in front of it.

We've added a contortion number in lieu of the aerial acts since there is no place to hang the trapeze. The act is choreographed by our Renaldo and comprised of American and Israeli girls.
After the show, we drive to our next stop, the city of Tel Aviv.

We are staying in what is called a children's village. The translation of the entrance sign is 'The Green Village', I am told. There is a lovely sculpture park in the middle of the campground but the rooms are a bit like jail cells and some of the kids semi-joke that the spartan Bedouin tent was better.

From the City to a Bedouin Tent

July 18

We drive back to Jerusalem to perform at the YMCA. It is a massive, temple-like building that stands across from the King David Hotel. The sign says YMCA 3 Arches. We find out that the 3 Arches is a restaurant. There is a Jewish/Arab day camp here that we will be performing for in the morning and then we have a show in the afternoon for the general public. The room is rather dark, so, Amit decides that the boys should do the fire act. They are very excited.

Elisheva and some of the Jerusalem Circus students come to see the show. We all take a picture together, afterwards. The room fills with day camp aged children. There are about 300 hundred of them. They love the show and are loudly appreciative. After the show, they all want to talk to our young performers.

A number of people come over to tell me how inspirational the show is and how wonderful it is to see Americans, Israelis, Jews, Arabs, kids of all colors working together.

The kids crows around the performers after the show. Royi's sistercomes to visit. She is studying at the Art Academy here in Jerusalem.

We get practically no media coverage. I'm told that the press isn't interested in covering "good" news. I have had the same trouble in the States. What a shame. This is such a great story and it is so heartening to se how fast we have formed a community where language, religion, color and other differences are not barriers to friendship and support. Our common language is circus and our common goal is to put on the show.

Between shows, we go to shop on Ben Yehuda street. Many of the guys buy jewelry for moms and girlfriends back home. Keaton finds a unique tallit (prayer shawl) for his upcoming Bar Mitzvah. Some of the girls buy shoes.

Everyone pitches in. Rabbi Marc helps with the rigging.

The second show is even more crowded. A number of people are sitting in the balcony. The woman who I stayed with when I came to Israel when I was 16 is at this show. We are so happy to see each other. She is 87 but has the same spirit and energy as ever.

Between shows, we go to shop on Ben Yehuda street. Many of the guys buy jewelry for moms and girlfriends back home. Keaton finds a unique tallit (prayer shawl) for his upcoming Bar Mitzvah. Some of the girls buy shoes.

We load up the truck to leave Jerusalem. This is the night we are experiencing a sleep out in a Bedouin tent in the desert near Mitzpah Ramon. By the time we get there it is quite dark. Really, really dark.

We walk (or scramble) up a rocky path to the campsite. I had a fantasy about having internet there to catch up on the blog. There isn't even any electricity!!! Inside the tent we are supposed to sleep in there are tatami mats and foam pallets. The camp is situated on gravel, not sand.
Once again, there are those among us who do not like roughing it this much. Israeli and Americans (mostly girls) complain loudly. There is one thing that everyone does agree on. The stars are absolutely beautiful out here. You can even see the Milky Way.
After a campfire cookout, people go to sleep. Several stay out to stargaze and some fall asleep outside the tent.

Everything Old is New to Us

July 17

We went to the legendary site of Masada, today. It is our first taste of the desert. At 10 AM, it is already too hot to climb the trail to the top. Elliana (American) and Shay (Israeli) are most disappointed. The others seem happy to take the cable cars up the steep slope.




The non-Jewish children ---both American and Arab--- are not familiar with the story. This was another fabulous palace, built by Herod, on the top of a high mountain. It became a last stand for some Jewish rebels in Roman times. There was a long siege. Finally, the Romans breach the walls, then, assured of their victory, they go back down to sleep before ransacking the place. The story is that the Jews decide it is better to die free than live as slaves. Ten men are chosen to kill the rest. Men have to kill their own families, their friends and then each other. When the Romans make it to the top, all are dead except for a few women and children. The question is what would you do in the same situation?




One says he would die because that is brave. Another that they would go into slavery with the hope of escaping. Keaton says he could not kill his family. Lemond says he would not know what he would really choose unless he was in that situation. All seem moved. We tour the site: the pigeon rooms, the store rooms, the meeting room, the bath house and sauna, the place the Romans breached the walls… Is it all an ancient urban legend? It still provokes thoughts and feelings.

We go from there to the Dead Sea. The kids have a blast floating with no effort. The water feels oily and stings if you get it in your eyes or a cut. But the kids love this part of the journey!

Everyone rinses off and we drive back to Neve Shalom. Our next stop is the Old City Of Jerusalem.




































When I first told the Arches we were going to Israel, the first thing Lemond asked was if he would get to ride a camel. Here he gets his chance. At the gates of the Old City, Lemond, Rianna and Kellin all ride a camel.


We meet a guide who takes us to a rooftop that gives us a magnificent view of the city. "There’s the Temple Mount!" Michel says. "I prayed there," Menar tell us, reverently, "It is very beautiful."

We go next to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It is said that on this site, Jesus was crucified, entombed and rose from the dead. There are several incredible shrines and mosaics. The Catholics among us seem particularly affected by this spot. There are many pilgrims and tourists. In one place, the attendant assumes the African-American Arches are all Muslims and makes them take off their shoes.


We walk through the streets of the old city. Who else has walked here? What figures from history and how many pilgrims?
We find a sort of area that is like an Old City food court with a bagel shop, a falafel shop and at the Israeli equivalent of a gyro place. The kids choose what they want for dinner.
Some of the kids shop in the marketplace. Shay’s mother, Hannah, is in great demand as she is great a bargaining with the shopkeepers. It is not unusual for the price to end up to be half of the original asking price.
We get to the Western Wall, the Wailing Wall. There is a security checkpoint and many beggars. Some try to sell you a red thread based on a story about Rebecca. Originally it is meant to protect women but here, men are getting them, too.
At the Wall, you are supposed to write your prayer on a piece of paper and place it into one of the myriad cracks. Diane is prepared and hands out post-it notes to everyone. There is a side for men and another for women. Many Orthodox Jews can be seen praying here. Some people are literally wailing by the Wall. There are plastic chairs for people to sit and pray. Masses of people are pressed up against the Wall. You just sort of wait by the back and seep your way to the front.
The Wall is jammed with supplications. Some are placed so high up, you wonder how they got there. At my eye-level, the wall is so stuffed with pieces of paper it is hard to see a place to squeeze more. Another custom is to walk away from the wall backwards. This is not easy with all the people and plastic chairs.
Israelis talk about having a pluralistic society. I’m not sure the kids really understand the social and historical significance of the different people they have seen who make up the population of Israel----Jews, Arabs, Muslims, Christians, Druze. America is composed of different religions and nationalities, as well. What is it that makes our differences more important than our similarities when we grow up? Why do your labels matter so much? Why is peaceful co-existence difficult for so many on the planet? You can look at the whole of Israel as a microcosm of human society and you can look at our little Galilee Arches Circus that way. I like our model better.
I have not written about problems we have had with and between individuals on this trip. I found out that the Galilee troupe has had similar issues between their members. But in both troupes, these incidents involve personal problems that stem from people living together in a community. The issues actually have nothing to do with race, religion, class, sex or national origin. People have conflicts. It is part of life. It is easier--- generally--- to resolve them one on one than group to group.

From Yokneam to Neve Shalom via Jerusalem Circus

July 16
Our show today is in St.Louis' sister city of Yokneam. We are performing at a day camp on their outside basketball court. We find a place to hang the trapeze. It is hot and sunny. Some of the kids here (and this happened also in the Arab village and in Acco) ask our Africa-American performers if they are from Africa.

The Galilee Arches do great despite the sun, heat, hot mats and some with no shoes (lots of hopping).

We go from there to a monastery called Muchroka on the top of Mount Carmel that has a stupendous view. Kellin says it is like being in an airplane without the plane. We have a picnic lunch here of cold cuts, bread, pita and hummus.

We head for Jerusalem and a visit with the Jerusalem Circus, the first Jewish Arab youth circus in Israel. Their director, Elisheva, and I have been e-mailing each other since 2001 when Circus Day Foundation did Circus Salaam Shalom with some of the Jewish and Muslim children in St. Louis. It is exciting for both of us to meet our counterparts in person.

The Jerusalem Circus kids are waiting for us in their gym. We do some mini-performances for each other. The Arches do minitramp, Menar does her trapeze, we do our big final pyramid and we see their juggler, rolla bolla, contortionist and trapeze performers.

Mostly the kids just want to interact and work together. So, we let them mingle circus-style. Trapeze, rolla, lyra, tumbling, juggling and partner acro are shared. It is over too soon since our bus driver is not allowed to be on the road over 12 hours.

We stop at a local mall to eat in their food court. As much as our kids have been anticipating McDonald's, they all agree it is not as good here. Some of the kids of both troupes prefer to get pizza and Chinese food instead.

We spend the night in a youth hostel in the village of Neve Shalom which is a village where Jews and Arabs live together. Neve means "oasis". So, we are in an Oasis of Peace.

Dir El Assad , Acco and Bet Kessler

Sun. July 15, 2007
Seven of the Arches stayed in the Arab village of Dir El Assad, overnight. The boys got to tour the mosque and the girls attended the birthday party of the little sister of some of the Galilee performers. The really big news is that Channi, one of the Jewish girls, also spent the night with the other girls in the Arab village! But there is some other news.

First you should all know that the kids are safe. There was a murder in the Arab village, last night. The girls only knew that there was a death because the kids at the birthday party weren’t allowed to dance outside out of respect. The boys, however, were closer to the action and the family they were staying with was related to one of the parties involved. The boys got to see the wrapped body carried through the street with about 1,000 people following it. Then they saw the burning down of the house of the person who committed the murder as he and his family were banished from the village. The boys say the police did nothing throughout the incident.

I found out about this this morning and was assured the children were never in danger and, if they had been, they would have and could have been whisked out of the village. Still, it was disturbing, to say the least. Because of the situation, it is decided that we will not perform in Dir El Assad as planned. We move the show to Majd El Krum. The local watermelon seller has a truck with a loudspeaker and he drives through the villages announcing the change of venue.


We will perform at the school. They weren’t expecting us and the place is a mess. We manage to clean it up and set up right before the show is supposed to start. Achmed asks me if I would like some coffee. Of course I say yes and he pulls an actual coffee pot out of a plastic bag he is carrying!!! Apparently, that is very common here. I think it is a great custom.

At first, there is hardly anyone there and then they just start streaming in. We end up with an audience of several hundred people! The past few days of hanging out together in each others’ homes has really cemented the friendships that were forming. We are not two separate troupes, but one. The audience LOVES the show. All the grown ups who are involved with the youth circus performers have tears in their eyes.

There is some press there and the story makes it online before
the end of the day at: http://www.ynet.co.il/articles/0,7340,L-3425666,00.html and now it is on:
http://www.ynetnews.com/articles/0,7340,L-3426415,00.html
I love the opening line!
Our first show is a tremendous success and brings tears, smiles and joy to many people!

From there we go to eat lunch at a Bedouin tent. There is music, reclining and some dancing!

Then we go to explore the old city of Acco, where we take a ride on a boat and there is more dancing!

We go on to our next show, which is at a home for handicapped people called Bet Kessler. This is one of the shows sponsored by Circus Remedy (http://www.circusremedy.com)/. This show takes me back to my roots: The Circus Kingdom. The Circus Kingdom was a youth circus run by Rev. David Harris and his wife, Trudy. Rev. Dave was a Methodist reverend who gathered youth circus performers form around the country and we toured the Eastern half of the United States. Wherever we performed, we would also do a show for people who could not come to us--- an orphanage, a senior citizens home a home for the mentally ill or a prison.


















I am honored to be carrying on his work in Israel with these amazing young people form America and Israel. The residents are thrilled with the performance and many of them come up to thank us and ask us back. It has been a very full and fulfilling day The residents are thrilled with the performance and many of them come up to thank us and ask us back. It has been a very full and fulfilling day

Day to Explore

NOT the St. Louis Arch
















Grown-ups' Day Out: Michael, Diane, Dan, Jessica, Bradley (old friend of Jessica's) and Richard

July 14, 2007
Rabbi Marc’s neighbors, Todd and Karen, have wifi. I walk down and sit in front of their house early in the morning to do the blog. Dogs and cats wander around the community.

Iking and Deon go back to the Arab village to Tamer’s house. Deon asks if I will see if his mother will let him stay the night. Iking wants to stay, too. The grown ups have commented on how daring the children are in the circus but how they are much less so with other things. It is about control, I think. In the circus, they are in control over what they do and what happens to them. They know what to expect.















We don’t know what the kids will be doing with their host families today. The adults have hired a guide. He takes us to a place called Caesaria. It is the site of a magnificent harbor built by King Herod and later occupied by Muslims, Crusaders and others over time.

The ruins are spectacular. Much of the mosaic work has survived. The amphitheater is still in use and has fantastic acoustics. There is an interactive museum. The ocean is a teal chartreuse there. There used to be a wood-fueled light house on the spot, in ancient times. You can see where the gardens were, the baths, the hippodrome track, the Temple-then-mosque-then-church. From there, we go to an ancient aqueduct that fed Caesaria. You can go underground and walk through the channels in the water. You can see the chisel marks on the wall from where the slaves hewed this plumbing system out of solid rock.

Dan and Jessica enjoy coffee in a Druze village

We eat lunch in Druze village. The table is piled with hummus, falafel, salads, lamb and warm pita. The Turkish coffee is served in tiny cups. I have three.

We get news from the kids. Shai’s family and Royi’s family both have the same idea and take their guests--- Lemond and Michel and Keaton and Kellin--- to some caves by the beach known as Rosh Hanikra. They found jellyfish on the beach and gave impromptu juggling lessons to some other kids, on the beach.

Shai, who has Lemond and Michel, lives in a gated community like Shorashim. His community has a petting zoo, so, Lemond gets to see a camel up close. Royi lives in Karmi’el. His family has built a wonderful house with a patio and a balcony and beautiful yard. Their bomb shelter (which they did have to use last year during the conflict with Lebanon) is the mother, Orli’s, art studio.

The girls have moved to the Arab village, Dir El Assad. They are at Manar and Manal’s house where it is their younger sister’s birthday. The boys are in the same village and have gathered a crowd as they tumble through the streets. They have made friends with some of the local kids. Tamer’s father is Achmed who is the local Arab liaison for the Galilee Circus and is also a school teacher. The village they are in was started by 5 brothers and now consists of 16 generations of the families.

From Campground to Homestays

July 13
The roosters (yes, plural) start crowing at 4 in the morning. I had been worried about the peacocks, but it is the roosters that are the most annoying. Some of the kids get woken up by having a rooster, duck, peacock or goose staring them in the face. They get up in ones and twos. Groggy and sleep deprived, they just continue playing with each other and hanging out.There is a climbing tree near the big trapeze rigging. Really, a climbing tree--- it has climbing wall foot holds nailed into it. The kids climb it. What IS the trapeze rigging for? In the light, I see it is missing guy lines and a tree has grown right to the trapeze.
















campground fowl



















keaton and duck

Then, Ali starts it. First, he is on the fence by the river, then on other side of the fence and then on the other side of the river. Amit, the teacher, is actually the next to join him in the river. There is a little bit of rapids over some rocks and Amit says sitting there is like getting a massage. Suddenly, there is a group of young circus kids swimming in the Jordan river. THE Jordan River or the JORDAN River, as